A SOPHISTICATED YOUNG ORIGIN

Fuadi plays many roles and wears many hats: he is a process designer, an importer, a dry miller, and a financier. He's also an academic and a great risk-taker. Thai coffee was relatively unknown in the international coffee scene before Fuadi and Jane created Beanspire in 2013. The increased production, accompanied by its processing innovation, is almost entirely thanks to Thai specialty roasters and the vibrant third-wave coffee scene. In fact, Thailand only exported 1% of its entire coffee production to the international market when Fuadi stepped in. Poised to bring these jewels to the specialty market, we cannot help but assume today's 10% is thanks to Beanspire.

When we met in 2016, we were struck by Fuadi's commitment to the farmers, particularly with the hill tribe minority communities. He aimed to offer alternatives to them that could last, that offered security and lifelong stability. He also aimed to offer Thais coffee to the world. 

 Beanspire was born with a clear strategy and a vision: to work closely with farmers to improve processes and quality; to be the alternative for the younger generations of coffee growers; to become, ultimately, the financial solution for the farmers. We are honoured to sit at the table when designing this future for an origin unlike any other.

 
 

These are the 2022-2023 season Beanspire Coffee farmers.
Click on their pictures to read their full bio.

Beanspire works with approximately 50 different coffees and 68 households.

 

KALEB
JORDAN
Doi Phu Khaa

hectares: 3
trees: 4000
bags bought: 6

Nawin Yaesorkoo
Hua Chang

hectares: 8
trees: 1,500
bags bought: 13

ASOR
MERLEAKU
Huai Mae Liam

hectare: 3
trees: 6000
bags bought: 10

"Nui" & "Aoy" Jaisooksern
Doi Saket

hectares: 32
trees: 40,000
bags bought: 29.5

 

MERLEAKU
FAMILY
Doi Pangkhon

hectare: 8
trees: 15000
bags bought: 53

Jane KittiRAT- tanapaibooN
Wiang Pa Pao

hectares: 30
trees: 53,000
bags bought: 40

JAROON
JAIPIN
Khun Lao

hectare: 4.2
trees: 9000
bags bought: 10

Watchara Yawirach
Mae Chedi

hectares: 3
trees: 40,000
bags bought: 10

 

Thawat "Nheng" Khonlak
 Kra Buri

hectares: 4
trees: 7,500
bags bought: 4

Panid
Choosit
Tha Sae

hectares: 8
trees: 15,000
bags bought: 0

S& K Chaos- uwanvilai
Doi Chang

hectares: 6.5
trees: 12,000
bags bought: 5

Chatree Saeyang
Khun Chang Kian

hectares: 3
trees: 4000
bags bought: 0

 

Noi Duongdee
Chaiprakarn

bags bought: 15

 
 

THIS SIDE UP VALUE CHAIN:

The price you pay: €10.90

Our Thai value chain is organised to a large degree by Beanspire. Not only did they acquire a dry mill this year, they also take care of the entire overseas shipping process for us.

CULTIVARS:

Red and yellow Catimor, Caturra, Bourbon, Typica, Catuai, Chiang Mai, SJ 133, Yellow Bourbon Mayaguez 139, High elevation Robusta, Chiang Mai 80

 

ALTITUDE:

400 – 1,500 meters above sea level. Note that at 19 degrees north of the equator, this elevation is really high for coffee (e.g. Colombia Narino is 1 degree north, Nicaragua  is about 13 degrees north.) Coffee cannot grow in Thailand above 1550m. 

NOTABLE:

Fuadi and Jane have created a well managed and organized company that is proving to be positive in the most misrepresented region in Thailand: the Golden Triangle.

Key Achievements:

2016 : first sales of Beanspire coffee (Doi Saket and Doi Pangkhon) in Europe

2017 : imported natural, honey and experimental lots from Saket. Visited Mr. Opp for the first time to discuss future cooperation Connected barista Rob Clarijs to Beanspire who competed with Thai coffee in the New York Masters, bought 60% more coffee from Beanspire compared to the year before.

2018 : Beanspire helped build a new, state of the art wet mill at Doi Pangkhon. Many roasters and traders went to visit Ata and Pupae, their coffee popularity has reached a tipping point as most of it sold out before it arrived in Europe. At Doi Saket they created an experimental semi washed lot that should combine the best traits of the washed and honey processes.

2019 : visits by by several of our roaster clients continued and around 90% of Beanspire’s harvest was sold directly to loyal fans throughout Europe.

2020 : prominent roasters like Has Bean started to carry Beanspire’s coffees in their assortment, further raising the origin to prominence, especially the processing innovation which has reached world standards. Added the Wiang Pa Pao blend to our assortment that serves as a more affordable espresso blend.

2021 : added six new farms to our assortment, firmly establishing Beanspire as a local curator of specialty coffees for the European market. During the pandemic, coffee sales did not suffer and even increased by 30%

2022 : first full container of coffee from Thailand for This Side Up. Revamped our Beanspire page to showcase many more of the farmers that Beanspire works with. This year, the total household count is 68, and the number of different coffees with different processing methods totals 50!

 

PROCESSING:

Natural:  cherries were floated and laid on bamboo raised beds in a one-inch layer. Under-ripe and fermented cherries throughout the drying process were sorted,  and the cherries were raked multiple times each day. After the cherries were dried, they're bagged to cure for two months before milling at Beanspires’ dry mill.

Kenya-style Washed:  this coffee went through  a double staged fermentation, which included dry fermentation, followed by wet fermentation, and soaking. Coffee was dried first on raised bamboo beds for at least 14 days, and lowland until the desired mouisture was achieved . 

Black Honey: the coffee cherries collected towards the end of the season because of the slow ripening which is unique to Hua Chang. We pulped the cherries at night and dried immediate on raised beds to prevent fermentation. The drying house is designed so that the ventilation allows for slow and even drying. After drying, the parchment is delivered to our mill to be hull and sorted for export.

Natural Yeast Fermentation: coffee is inoculated with two types of yeasts: a yeast that is traditionally used for red wine, and a yeast used for white wine. Coffee cherries are fermented in closed tanks with a one-way valve, making sure the tanks are partially under water —in order to control the temperature. After 5 days, extra nutrients are added. This helps prolong the fermentation and yeast growth. Soon after, the second type of yeast is added into the tanks and cherries are left to ferment for an extra 5 days. After this, cherries are taken out of the tank and laid out on a thin layer on raised beds for 25 days until the moisture hits an appropriate level.

Sparking Natural: coffee cherries were fermented without water, using yeast that is typically used by Sauvignon blanc, creating an anaerobic fermentation environment. After three days, cherries were submerged in water and fermented further with a LALCAFÉ™ yeast, which has been selected especially for coffee. Lastly, cherries were fermented in an anaerobic condition for three more days. 

**Beanspire is a true innovator in terms of experimentation. They manage other processes such as: Anaerobic White Honey, Double Anaerobic Honey, Anaerobic Black Honey and others.

 

DOI PANGKHON: €6,39

The price Beanspire paid the Merlaku family at Doi Pangkhon for their coffee wet parchment. The farmgate prices paid in 2022 for other coffees were:

  • Doi Pangkhon Natural: €7,86

  • Huai Mae Liam Anaerobic White Honey: €7,47

  • Huai Mae Liam Anaerobic Natural: €8, 75

  • Doi Saket Kenya-styled Washed: €7, 31

  • Doi Saket Anaerobic Fully Washed: €7, 31

  • Doi Saket Double Anaerobic Honey: €8, 14

  • Doi Saket Typica Anaerobic Natural: €8, 42

  • Doi Saket Yellow Bourbon Anaerobic Natural: €9, 25

  • Doi Saket Natural Controlled Yeast Fermentation: €8, 97

  • Doi Saket Koji Natural: €8, 97

  • Wynya Doi Saket Black Honey: €8, 97

  • Mae Suai Kenya Styled Washed: €6, 75

  • Mae Suai Natural: €9, 03

  • Khun Lao Black Honey: €7, 92

  • Khun Lao Natural: €9, 33

  • Wiang Pa Pao Fully Washed: €6, 75

  • Kra Buri Fully Washed Robusta - Nheng Khonlak: €5, 89

  • White Elephant Temple Natural Robusta: €5, 89

  • Mae Chedi Anaerobic White Honey: €8, 08

  • Mae Chedi Anaerobic Natural: €10, 47

  • Doi Phukkha Kombucha Anaerobic White Honey: €9, 3

  • Hua Chang Natural Yeast Fermentation: €9, 67

Beanspire: €1,66

This is the average price Beanspire gets for their work as exporter, coordinator, curator and development agent. This price includes their costs, such as coordinating the wet- and dry milling process, exporting and sea freight processes, as well as their profit margin. The margin for other coffees are:

  • Doi Pangkhon natural: €3,00

  • Huai Mae Liam Anaerobic White Honey: € 3,08

  • Huai Mae Liam Anaerobic Natural: € 2,71

  • Doi Saket Kenya-styled Washed: € 1,25

  • Doi Saket Anaerobic Fully Washed: € 2,15

  • Doi Saket Double Anaerobic Honey: € 2,96

  • Doi Saket Typica Anaerobic Natural: € 3,54

  • Doi Saket Yellow Bourbon Anaerobic Natural: € 3,85

  • Doi Saket Natural Controlled Yeast Fermentation: € 4,13

  • Doi Saket Koji Natural: € 4,13

  • Wynya Doi Saket Black Honey: € 2,71

  • Mae Suai Kenya Styled Washed: € 1,30

  • Mae Suai Natural: € 1,83

  • Khun Lao Black Honey: € 2,41

  • Wiang Pa Pao Fully Washed: € 0,63

  • Kra Buri Fully Washed Robusta - Nheng Khonlak: € 0,64

  • White Elephant Temple Natural Robusta: € 1,54

  • Mae Chedi Anaerobic White Honey: € 2,72

  • Mae Chedi Anaerobic Natural: € 2,75

  • Doi Phukkha Kombucha Anaerobic White Honey: € 1,49

  • Hua Chang Natural Yeast Fermentation: € 3,23

SHIPPING: €0,94

Sea freight from Bangkok to Rotterdam + clearance, local transport and storage.

THIS SIDE UP: €1,40

This is This Side Up highest possible compensation for spending time and resources importing this coffee. Our work includes building relationships with shipping and warehousing partners, managing export, import and shipping bureaucracy, Q grading, sampling and jointly promoting this coffee with Beanspire Coffee and Doi Saket coop members. For a full overview of what we do to earn our margin, see the Trade Models page.

FINANCING: €0,45

Average financing cost we have to pay social lenders and banks - simply because we don’t have the money in the bank to buy such large amounts of coffee all at once. This ensures immediate payment to Beanspire when the coffee leaves the port..

REGENERATION: €0,06

A standard TSU premium on all coffees designated exclusively to accelerate farmers’ own regenerative agriculture projects.


AVAILABLE FROM beanspire:

  • Doi Pangkhon Kenya-style Washed

  • Doi Saket Kenya-styled Washed

  • Doi Saket Anaerobic Fully Washed

  • Doi Saket Yellow Bourbon Anaerobic Natural

  • Doi Saket Koji Natural

  • Wynya Doi Saket Black Honey

  • Khun Lao Black Honey

  • Khun Lao Natural

  • Wiang Pa Pao Fully Washed

  • Kra Buri Fully Washed Robusta - Nheng Khonlak

  • Mae Chedi Anaerobic Natural

  • Doi Phukkha Kombucha Anaerobic White Honey

  • Hua Chang Natural Yeast Fermentation

RECOMMENDED IKAWA PROFILE:

We noticed in previous years that TSU Washed 1 wasn’t developing the beans as fully as possible so we tried Christopher Feran’s High Alt itude 1800m profile which gives fantastic results. We actually adapted our standard Washed profile to have a lower drop temperature (145 degrees Celsius) and a few more seconds total roast time so you can use both - they now develop acidities in these dense beans beyond citric into smooth malic flavours, allowing the chocolate body and layered sweetness to develop adequately. Cut the roast short if DTR exceeds 23%. 


CONTACT THE PRODUCER

We communicate with Fuadi at Beanspire for all our practical dealings, but Ata and Pupae are more than willing to answer any questions you might have directly.

 

CONTACT Ata and Pupae Becheku / Fuadi Pitsuwan

EMAIL fuadi@beanspirecoffee.com 

TEL +6682 191 4473 / +6602 594 3231

FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM

 

 
 

Doi Pangkhon, Chiang Rai Province, Thailand

 

Specialty Coffee from Thailand?

Thailand is not traditionally known as a specialty coffee producing country, yet it has been producing Arabica coffee since the early 80's. It started off as part of the Thai King’s opium eradication project. Because Arabica coffee thrives in a similar condition as opium, it was selected as a substituting crop against the cultivation of the illicit plant. Today, Thailand produces about 8,000 tons of Arabica coffee, mainly in the mountainous north of the country. On top of that, Thailand produces about ten times as much Robusta coffee, making it the third largest coffee producer in Asia. Thai specialty coffee is rarely seen in the top specialty roaster segment abroad. The main reasons for this are twofold. Thailand is a middle-income country and has a thriving local coffee market. That means relatively high production costs for a relatively undemanding coffee market.

Having said this, a strong specialty coffee segment is emerging. At least on the consumer side, the Third Wave is quite well established, with artisan roasters and cafés in Bangkok and Chang Mai. These roasters have recently begun to develop and buy local coffees too, not in the least because of import tariffs on foreign coffees. However, this scene is still very small and for now, hardly creates enough incentives for farmers to improve the quality of their coffee to specialty grade. So even though they have been doing a great job at pushing the limits of Thai coffee, the specialty coffee scene would be greatly aided with more specialty coffee knowledge and global integration. 

Why We Care

This Side Up sees an important opportunity to showcase Thai coffee to the world's specialty coffee scene, not despite but precisely because of the higher production prices and living standards. Exposure to the specialty coffee phenomenon in relatively stable economies like Costa Rica and Panama has made them leaders in innovation, labour and environmental protection - and equally importantly, has made coffee farming, even on a micro-mill scale, lucrative for the next generation. On a larger scale, the gigantic coffee traders will eventually run out of cheap places to source bad coffee, and specialty coffee will surely continue to grow and disperse. These factors, in our view, mean that equality, quality focus and integration will slowly but inevitably become the future of the entire coffee producing world.

As a global society, we should be getting used to consumer prices that reflect a higher level of country development and social justice. We therefore have the ambitious goal to demonstrate, however small we are, that by kickstarting an increase in exposure and quality investment, stable Thailand and its young generation of coffee entrepreneurs could enter into a race to the top, become a country known internationally for its superb coffees - and in time set an example for all of East Asia.

Beanspire

Enter Beanspire, an exporting company made up of a group of young Thai specialty coffee enthusiasts who exist to provide a window for Thai specialty coffee smallholder farmers to the world. Their mission is much like that of This Side Up - but since they are mainly based in origin, our combined value was apparent from the start. Fuadi Pitsuwan was introduced to me by a mutual friend and tea expert, Janjarang Pat Kijitkhun and we quickly became sparring partners about the possibilities of Thai coffee in the European market. We decided to do a pilot project with the 2016 harvest aimed at attracting the interest not only adventurous roasters, but of other, larger importers as well.

 

working for strong communities

When Kaleb returned to Thailand after being abroad for a few years in the US, he wondered: What can I do to help people stay home with their families and create prosperity? He was worried about the high migration, especially from very young people that were mainly motivated to pursue their ambition in larger cities, or other countries He also noticed that the opium eradication programs started by the late King was not truly pushing true, since most farmers didn’t have the tools or the resources to manage the entire process. Coffee came as a possibility because it was truly the only thing Kaleb knew how to do. During his time in the US, as an intern in the Church he and his family belong to, he ended up being in charge of the small roaster station and somehow decided to take it seriously. This initial, raw curiosity, lead him to research coffee when there was not much information about coffee being published, and gave him the experience he needed to return to his roots and work with coffee in his community. Today, he runs the project the Gem Forest that’s growing from within every year in entirely unexpected ways.

 

CULTIVARS:

Chiang Mai 80

 

Altitude:

1500 meters above sea level

PROCESSING:

Red Honey: coffee cherries go into the float tank to remove the floaters. Soon after, cherries are hung up in mesh sacks in the shade for about 2-4 days, depending on the temperature. Then they are dry pulped and set out to dry on shaded raised beds. After a couple days, the mucilage coating the parchment oxidizes to a reddish brown color and tastes a little tangy. Then the drying is completed on screen in the shade after about 20 days.

Kombucha White Honey: coffee cherries are harvested, floated, and pulped immediately. Pulped coffee is submerged in spring water, sealed in a barrel with 1:50 inoculation of kombucha (made with local microbes) for 36 hours at 25C, still leaving some of the mucilage on the parchment. Coffee is then removed from the barrel and shade dried without removing the mucilage. Drying time is about 20 days.

 

 Notable:

This Arabica honey coffee comes from cherry of mixed varieties sourced at up to 1500m on Doi Phu Khaa.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.

 

the first step of a long journey

Soon after Fuadi detected Thailand’s potential as a new origin, he traveled around the country searching for the right allies to work with. He was looking for the right altitude, growth potential, and acidity. Still, he was also in search of ambitious farmers who would eventually be willing to experiment with him as the process designer. This lead him to the Mearleku brothers, a united group from the hill tribe community.

So, in Huai Mae Liam village, near Doi Pangkhon, Asor Merlaeku, who is only 28, became immediately engaged with Fuadi and his working dynamic. He is, according to Fuadi, one of the most sophisticated and innovative farmers he works with. His coffee reflects outstanding complexities in flavour. This is the first year the coffee from Hui Mae has been exported independently, and we’re so happy to see it happening!

 

CULTIVARS:

Catuai, Chiang Mai, Typica

ALTITUDE:

1,350 meters above sea level.

 

PROCESSING:

Anaerobic natural: the coffee cherries are anaerobically rested inside GrainPro bags for 5 days after picking and flotation. GrainPro is a hermetic bag that prevents oxygen from coming in, but also oxygen to permeate out, closely mimicking a vacuum environment. This creates an anaerobic fermentation process that adds complexity and sweetness to the coffee. After that, the coffee cherries are dried on bamboo raised beds for 3 weeks, before being cured further in GrainPro for 1 month.

White Honey: because this coffee is partially fermented, the mucilage on the parchment results in a brightness close to washed coffee, but smooth and sweet like a honey. 

 

NOTABLE:

Huai Mae Liam is a coffee producing village whose coffee has never been exported before this year. In the past, the coffee from this village got sent to bigger villages like Doi Chang and Doi Pangkhon and had been marketed under the names of those famous villages.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire among your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.

 

The tastes of Chiang Rai’s rich soil

Farmers in Doi Pangkhon, Timberland Peak have been growing and milling coffee for over 40 years but have never exported or experimented with processing as they do now with Fuadi. Competing in the international market also means taking the opportunity to work towards sustainability in all aspects. Fuadis' strong relationship with the Merlaeku brothers has given them the trust, the tools, and the know-how to detect a lifelong project in coffee. Together with Beaspire, we work with about 20 families from Doi Pangkhon.

 

CULTIVARS:

Catuai, Typica, Chiang Mai, SJ133 

ALTITUDE:

1,250-1450meters above sea level.

PROCESSING:

Natural: cherries were floated and laid on bamboo raised beds in a one-inch layer. Under-ripe and fermented cherries throughout the drying process were sorted, and the cherries were raked multiple times each day. After the cherries were dried, they're bagged to cure for two months before milling at Beanspires’ dry mill.

Kenya-style Washed: this coffee went through a double staged fermentation, which included dry fermentation, followed by wet fermentation, and soaking. Coffee was dried first on raised bamboo beds for at least 14 days, and lowland until the desired mouisture was achieved . 

 

 NOTABLE:

Doi Pangkhon, in Chiang Rai, has 300 households, each typically producing about 1-2 tons of parchment. In the past years, Fuadi and his team has worked with each house individually on their wet processing. They’ve also bought their parchment before hulling and grading at their mill.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY:

You may use these images freely to promote Pangkhon among your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.


Doi Pangkhon

Beanspire has been actively assisting the farming families of Doi Pangkhon to improve the quality of their coffee. For our "Pangkhon" microlot, we specifically work with two entrepreneurial siblings of the Becheku family from Akha hilltribe: Ata and Pupae. Ata is a 30-year old oldest of the three siblings whose entrepreneurial spirit and leadership is a force for change for his community. Pupae is Ata’s 26-year old sister, who had worked in both Korea and Taiwan, before returning home to Doi Pangkhon to help her brother produces coffee. Pupae speaks fluent Chinese and is also a Chinese language teacher at a local school. The young Bechekus are third generation coffee farmers at Doi Pangkhon, and they represent one of the most inspiring aspects of the Thai coffee scene. the future of the entire specialty industry around the world where farmers and their children are quitting coffee works for other more lucrative opportunities. These guys are returning home to work on coffee because they see a bright future in it and they are farming coffee by choice, not because they lack other opportunities.

Doi Pangkhon’s coffee farms, at 1250-1500 masl., contain Caturra, Catimor, Bourbon and Typica cultivars. Such a mixture of cultivars allows farmers to mitigate various risks. For example, Bourbon and Typica tend to be weaker plants and sometime come under attacks of left rust and other diseases, but great cupping potentials. Caturra and especially Catimor are more rust resistance and higher yield. Stunningly, because of the famously fragrant soil in the Chang Rai area, even these hybrid varieties are capable of producing complex, slightly fruity and prominently spicy cups. 

Under the Bechekus’ direction, the majority of farmers at Doi Pangkhon (300 families) have switched to processing their coffee using a Kenya-style double washed method. This involves pulping coffee cherries at night and leaving the parchment to ferment in a tank without the use of water for one night. And then on the second night, the parchment is then fermented again, but this time by soaking it under water. This process is also known as a double fermentation washed method, commonly seen in Africa. The parchment is then dried on bamboo-raised beds until the right moisture content before getting hulled, size sorted, density sorted and hand sorted to remove all the defects. This unique processing is rarely seen in other coffee growing regions of Thailand and it results in a balanced and clean cup with mild acidity. Yet this is merely the beginning of the future of Thai coffee and coffee from Doi Pangkhon, This Side Up plans to continue working with this community to keep improving the quality of their coffee.

In 2017, Don Pangkhon perfected their Kenya style double fermentation method and made an even cleaner cup, easily climbing a point on the SCA scale. A few farmers have also started to dry in a green house and we are building these green houses for more farmers next year. We are also proud to see that the farmers made some pretty impressive processing experiments: not just a beautiful and winey natural but a fruity honey and even some wine yeast fermented lots that will be used by Rob Clarijs when he competes in the New York Masters. In the past years, we worked with each house individually on their wet processing and bought their parchment before hulling and grading at our mill. This year, Beanspire invested in a wet mill, operated by a few of our partner producers who're all family, so the coop and Beanspire had more control of the process. Beanspire is now also able to buy cherries from outside the family, expanding the possibilities for the village in the future.

 

jaroon jaipin

Jaroon's innovative vision has brought his community to expand the limits of the coffee they produce. With a team of collaborators, Jaroon continuously experiments and is not afraid to try new processing methods.

This area grows mainly Chiang Mai variety, a local hybrid that crosses SL28, Caturra, and Hibrido de Timor. So, to improve the cup quality, it's a catimor variant backcrossed with SL28. For us, working with such a committed and innovative farmer is a true accomplishment.

 

CULTIVARS:

Chiang Mai

ALTITUDE:

1,100 meters above sea level.

 

PROCESSING:

Anaerobic Black Honey: coffee cherries are fermented in closed HDPE bags and submerged under water for three days, pulped without water and dried on raised beds inside a greenhouse with the assistance of a dehumidifier.

Anaerobic Natural: coffee cherries were kept in closed HDPE bags and submerged under water to keep the temperature down for . three days. Soon after, the coffee cherries were laid on raised beds in a green drying house for another three days. Soon after, the coffee cherries were moved inside a completely sealed room, and dried using a dehumidifier known as the "Low Temperature Low Humidity". Coffee cherries were then further cured, kept in GrainPro as dried pods, for two months before milling.  

Anaerobic Black Honey with Profile Drying: this is an anaerobic black honey with a drying profile. Coffee cherries were fermented in closed HDPE bags and submerged under water for three days, coffee cherries were pulped without water and dried on raised beds inside a greenhouse with the assistance of a dehumidifier.

Anaerobic Natural with Low Temperature and Low Humidity Drying Profile: coffee cherries were rested in closed HDPE bags and submerged under water to keep the temperature down in order to avoid unwanted fermentation. After three days, the coffee cherries were laid on raised beds in a green drying house for another three days. After the cherries were 'settled' (i.e. started to turn black as they had lost enough moisture), they were moved inside a completely sealed room.

 

NOTABLE:

This is catimor variant (like Colombia and Castillo varietals) that's backcrossed with SL28 in order to improve the cup quality. It's a rust resistant cultivar that's been developed by the late King as part of his effort to eradicate opium plantation by the hill tribe in the North.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY:

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire among your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.

 

UNDER THE SHADE OF THE FOREST

Located in the area's highest elevation, Hua Chang has its own microclimate in Thailand's most significant coffee-producing region. Nawin works every day with an open mind and a broad perspective. He is a young risk-taker that lives and works in Hua Chang, which literally means "Elephant Head." The area is covered in forest, so the cherries ripen slowly. If we add all these elements, plus the rich nutrients found in the fertile black soil, perhaps we can explain the top-quality coffee that it produces!

 

CULTIVARS:

Catuai, Typica

ALTITUDE:

1,500 meters above sea level.

 

PROCESSING:

Natural: after the harvesting of ripe cherries, they are floated to remove potential defects. They are then laid out on a thin layer on raised beds for several days, while underripe and over-fermented cherries continued to be picked out. Then when the moisture reached about 30%, the coffee cherries are moved to speed up the drying on the patio to prevent overfermentation. For cleanliness, the patio is covered with plastic sheets.

Black Honey: the coffee cherries collected towards the end of the season because of the slow ripening which is unique to Hua Chang. We pulped the cherries at night and dried immediate on raised beds to prevent fermentation. The drying house is designed so that the ventilation allows for slow and even drying. After drying, the parchment is delivered to our mill to be hull and sorted for export.

Natural Yeast Fermentation: Coffee is inoculated with two types of yeasts: a yeast that is traditionally used for red wine, and a yeast used for white wine. Coffee cherries are fermented in closed tanks with a one-way valve, making sure the tanks are partially under water —in order to control the temperature. After 5 days, extra nutrients are added. This helps prolong the fermentation and yeast growth.

Soon after, the second type of yeast is added into the tanks and cherries are left to ferment for an extra 5 days. After this, cherries are taken out of the tank and laid out on a thin layer on raised beds for 25 days until the moisture hits an appropriate level.

Kenya Style Washed: the coffee cherries arrived from early to late evening then rested for one night before being floated the next morning. The cherries were then pulped and left to dry ferment for one day. The next morning, water was added and wet fermented for an additional day before washing and soaking then put to dry on a patio, covered with plastic sheets.

 

NOTABLE:

Doi Chang is the biggest coffee producing region of Thailand. The area is covered in forest so all the coffee trees are under shade. The micro climate there allows the cherries to ripen more slowly than other farms in Doi Chang. Its volcanic black soil suggests fertility and nutrients, allowing for the production of top quality coffee.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire among your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.

 

THE RAREST OF THE RARE

As the coffee movement grows stronger in Thailand, young sons and daughters of farmers are coming back to the land, approaching it from another perspective, and applying their knowledge and experience from other fields to coffee. Such is the case of this young and admirable couple: Nui and Aoy. Aged 35 and 32, respectively, they returned to Doi Saket and quit their white-collar jobs. Nui is 35 and an engineer by training; Aoy is 32 and an accountant. Doi Saket is the oldest coffee-growing area in Thailand and was, in fact, one of the first opium replacement areas run by the late King. So, in this area, Heirloom varietals, particularly Typica, are quite common on many old farms. At This Side Up it's important to join forces with such committed farmers and, together with Beanspire take up the challenge and demonstrate that there are people willing to pay for these efforts!

 

CULTIVARS:

Arabica, Catimor and Yellow Bourbon Mayaguez 139.

 

ALTITUDe:

1,300 – 1,500 meters above sea level. Note that at 19 degrees north of the equator, this elevation is really high for coffee (e.g. Colombia Narino is 1 degree north, Nicaragua  is about 13 degrees north.) Coffee cannot grow in Thailand above 1550m. 

NOTABLE:

Doi Saket is one of the oldest coffee growing regions in Thailand and there are still a lot of heirloom Typica plants left. Part of Thailand's King’s opium crop substitution program.

PROCESSINg:

Anaerobic Fully Washed: coffee cherries are kept in a closed tank for three days before taking them out to pulp; coffee is then put back in the closed tank and fermented for 72 hours under anaerobic environment, before taking the coffee out to wash, soak, clean and dry on raised beds. Coffee is then dried to the right moisture level.

Double Anaerobic Honey: coffee cherries were kept in a closed tanks for three days before pulped. Soon after this, they were put back into the closed tank to ferment in an anaerobic environment for 72 more hours before drying, with its mucilage kept intact. Coffee was then delivered to the dry mill for hulling and sorting. 

Sparking Natural: coffee cherries were fermented without water, using yeast that is typically used by Sauvignon blanc, creating an anaerobic fermentation environment. After three days, cherries were submerged in water and fermented further with a LALCAFÉ™ yeast, which has been selected especially for coffee. Lastly, cherries were fermented in an anaerobic condition for three more days. 

Double Anaerobic Black Honey: coffee cherries were kept in a closed tank for 3 days, before pulping. Soon after, coffee went back into the closed tank and fermented the coffee further for an additional 72 hours under anaerobic environment, before taking the coffee out to dry on raised beds immediately. In this process coffee was dried with the mucilage intact without washing or soaking the coffee. After it is dried to the right moisture content, it is delivered to the dry mill for hulling and sorting.

Koji-Inoculated Natural: this coffee involves inoculating the coffee cherries with Koji, a fermentation culture, Aspergillus oryzae used to produce sake and other Japanese condiments. Koji grew on boiled rice to multiply the mass of the fungus. This was then mixed with the substrate with coffee cherries, at a ratio of 20g of the Koji substrate to 1kg of cherries, in a tank and let the fungus grow onto the cherries. It is important that the Koji has access to moisture and oxygen to enable its growth. After 5 days, cherries were taken out to dry on the raised beds.  This extended process helps elicit fruit-forward and chocolate-like flavors in the coffee. After the fermentation, the cherries are then taken out of the tank laid out on a thin layer on raised beds for 25 days until the moisture hits an appropriate level.

 

KEY ACHIEVEMENTs:

2016: first sales of Doi Saket coffee in Europe

2017: imported natural, honey and experimental lots from Saket. Visited Mr. Opp for the first time to discuss future cooperation

2018: Most Saket lots sold out before even arriving to Europe. Created an experimental semi washed lot that should combine the best traits of the washed and honey processes.

2019: Imported only directly traded coffees on behalf of loyal roasters, except one special semi-washed lot. All coffee production overseen by Mr. Opp.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY:

You may use these images freely to promote Saket among your customers.


Doi Saket

Doi Saket is the oldest coffee growing area in Thailand, located in Chiang Mai province. The first few trees of Arabica coffee that were part of the opium replacement program of the Thai King were tested here. As a result, heirloom varietals, particularly Typica, are still commonplace in many old farms. The area is also a strict protected forest because it is next to a big city, Chiang Mai, meaning the national forest department and the police can reach it easier. Doi Saket is the epitome of shade grown coffee farms. Typica trees are grown under a forest with many micro mills each producing about one ton of green beans per year.

Recently, there has been an effort to introduce rust resistant and higher yield Arabica hybrids at Doi Saket’s coffee farms. This Side Up sees the importance of bringing these existing Typica beans to international market because it could demonstrate to the farmers that there are people who appreciate and are willing to pay more for the heirloom cultivar to compensate for the lower yield. In some sense, this effort could be called “Operation Saving Heirlooms.” 

Unlike Doi Pangkhon (another coffee This Side Up is offering from Thailand) whose inhabitants are Akha hill tribe, Doi Saket’s villagers are of Thai descent, meaning they typically integrated better with the Thai society and the Thai state has been better at providing them with social welfares. Doi Saket’s farmers grow coffee from the altitude of 1000-1500 masl, but Beanspire selected only coffee beans from 1300+ masl for our lot. Coffee at Doi Saket is processed using a traditional fully washed method. Coffee cherries are pulped at micro wet mills at each farming family’s home and then dried on raised bamboo beds. The parchment is then hulled, size sorted, density sorted and hand sorted. In the next seasons, we will be experimenting with other processing techniques to explore the limits of Thai coffee.

Through our partnership with Beanspire Coffee, a group of young Thai specialty coffee believers who have been working with farmers in Thailand to improve the quality of coffee, This Side Up works with a cooperative at Doi Saket that is headed by a progressive village head, Mr. Opp, who wants to see the quality of Doi Saket’s coffee improves. Mr. Opp hopes Doi Saket’s coffee will be roasted by those who appreciate the hard work of his village members. Mr. Opp knows that connecting his village members to the specialty market will help improve the standards of the coffee from his village. This is both Beanspire’s and This Side Up’s first season of working with Mr. Opp and we have high hopes for the future coffee from Doi Saket!

In 2017, Beanspire and Doi Saket worked together very intensively to create some incredible microlots which we decided to sell by the kilo because they are so rare. Here are the details of the processing of the fully washed, honey and natural lots that we imported for the 2017 season. 

Fully washed lot:  made up of 5 small scale farmers. Fermented for 24 hours and then soaked for 24 hours more. The coffee is dried on bamboo-raised beds for 14-21 days. The parchment went through multiple sorting machines (size and density) and lastly hand-sorted.

Honey washed experiment: sorted again after selective picking. pulped and dry fermented for 12 hours to partially remove the mucilage before drying the parchment on raised beds. Removed the mucilage for about 50%, hence much of the mucilage still remained, producing parchment that is red in color. The parchment is dried very thin and raked by hand frequently to prevent further fermentation. Parchment was sorted to take out any defect during the drying process as well.

Natural experiment: First, ripe cherries picked in the morning and began the processing right away to avoid unwanted fermentation. Second, hand-sorted only coffee cherries to select only perfectly ripe ones. Third, the cherries were samples to make sure that their Brix values are higher than 22. Fourth, cherries floated to remove any defective coffee beans. Fifth, laid the cherries on raised beds in a single layer and minimised the cherries touching each other to ensure even moisture and lack of unwanted fermentation. Sixth, dried the coffee in a green house in a controlled environment. The drying was carefully monitored over 3 weeks and we continued to pick out defective cherries until the moisture of the cherries reached 10%. 

In 2018, next to the successful processing experiments of 2017, Beanspire and Doi Saket cooperated on a new experimental semi washed process: They partially fermented the coffee for 12 hours, cleaned the wet parchment, but left a trace of mucilage on the parchment with hope that it would produce a clean cup and good acidity like the washed process, but also add interesting characteristics, particularly the sweetness and body, which are more common in honey processed coffee than washed. In other words, it's a half-way process between a fully washed and a honey. After the parchment is dried on raised beds to a desired moisture level for 21-25 days, we then cured the coffee for two more months before milling and the green is further rested for a few months until it is exported. Although in the next few years no new processes were created, existing processes were assessed and tweaked, especially the semi-washed lot. The idea of this coffee was to explore the possibility of creating cleaner, but complex coffee.

In recent times, Beanspire and Doi Saket have been experimenting with new processes and developed the Double Anaerobic Honey and Sparking Natural.

 

SHE, WHO NEVER GIVES UP!

While Fuadi goes to bed every night thinking about ways to export coffee from Thailand, Jane, his business partner, wonders how to make processes more efficient. Their vision and unwavering belief are making Beanspire a strong company. They love their country, its nature, and its culture; they are true believers that, through coffee, a better world is possible. To bring this into action every day on the field takes a lot of courage, patience, and hard work. It sometimes requires a great deal of resilience, particularly while dealing with the big industries and their questionable ethics. Jane travels around the Golden Triangle, amongst farms and villages, collecting the coffee they later mill.

 

CULTIVARs:

Catuai, Typica and Chiang Mai

 

ALTITUDE:

1200-1400 meters above sea level

PROCESSINg:

Fully Washed: after going through a wet fermentation process for 12-24 hours, the pulped coffee was soaked in fresh water for another 12 hours; dried in bamboo raised beds and greenhouses for 15 to 20 days. This coffee is shipped in a triple layered bag: a cotton bag in the outer layer, High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) in the middle layer, and Grain Pro in the innermost layer. 

 

Notable:

Wiang Pa Pao Fully Washed is a project led by Jane Kittiratanapaiboon, a co-founder of Beanspire, in the Wiang Pa Pao district of Chiang Rai, Thailand. She controlled the process, cupped the coffee and collected the parchments from a wet mill nearby Beanspire's dry mill in Wiang Pa Pao. This coffee represents what an emerging origin like Thailand has to offer. Expect clean, caramel sweetness, mild lemon acidity and a good body that is sure to be a workhorse for your roaster and café as an exciting SO coffee or part of a blend!

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY :

You may use these images freely to promote Wiang Pa Pao among your customers.

 
 

COMPLEX FLAVOURS OF AN INNOVATIVE TRADITION

Watchara Yawirach is 34 years old and is the leader of a coffee cooperative in Mae Chedi district of Chiang Rai with 19 members. Mae Chedi is an area that is traditionally known for tea plantations. Tea is the main cash crop in the area. But coffee has always been part of farmers' livelihood, albeit to a lesser degree than tea. Coffee was introduced into the area in 1977 when the crop was encouraged to be cultivated to replace opium production in Thailand. With the recent rise in specialty coffee demands, the young farmers in the area are starting to take coffee more seriously. This is the second year of their special coffee production and is the first year that the coffee is getting exported. This group of stella coffee farmers borrows tea fermentation methods and applies them to coffee. Watchara led them to experiment with many other techniques as well. This coffee represents one of the best fully washed coffees that has come out of Thailand this season.

 

CULTIVARs:

Catimor variant backcrossed with SL28, known in the area as Chiang Mai.

ALTITUDE:

1,100 meters above sea level

 

PROCESSINg:

Anaerobic White Honey: coffee fruits are fermented for five days in plastic bags, pulped, further fermented, and dried on raised beds before going through the destoner, huller, size grader, density table —multiple times— before the hand sorting process begins.

 

Notable:

Although Mae Chedi is better known as a tea plantation region, coffee has been part of the farmers' lives for over 40 years. More precisely since 1977, when the Government encouraged crop cultivation in order to replace opium production in Thailand. The recent rise in demand for specialty coffee is leading a younger generation of farmers in the area to take coffee more seriously.

 

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY:

You may use these images freely to promote Mae Chedi among your customers.

 
 

FINDING THE FINE ROBUSTA 

As the second generation of robusta farmers from a family selling Robusta to instant coffee factories, Thawat "Nheng" had the vision to pursue the production of fine Robusta while creating a more sustainable livelihood for himself and his family. So, far he hasn't only brought fine Robusta processing to a new level but has done so while making his own compost and managing an intercropping system. The farm is fully irrigated with 7 reservoirs. 

 

CULTIVARS:

High Elevation Robusta

 

ALTITUDE:

600 meters above sea level.

Procesing:

Fully Washed: after going through a wet fermentation process for 12-24 hours, the pulped coffee was soaked in fresh water for another 12 hours; dried in bamboo raised beds and greenhouses for 15 to 20 days. This coffee is shipped in a triple layered bag: a cotton bag in the outer layer, High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) in the middle layer, and Grain Pro in the innermost layer.

 

 

NOTABLE:

Thawats’ uses his own compost. His fine Robusta has allowed him to fund his nephew and build a new house. This is in sharp contrast to the days when all the coffee was sold to instant coffee factories.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire among your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.

 

STAYING STRONG AMIDST CHANGE

Panid is a veteran farmer who has been growing Robusta for over 20 years. When industrial-grade buyers noticed the group's success with their processing experimentation, they immediately offered 50% more for Robusta buyers in the region, reducing the incentive for some farmers to develop specialty-grade Robusta. Panid, however, decided to pursue his improvement. This invigorating and outstanding commitment is what wakes us up every day!

 

CULTIVARS:

Robusta

ALTITUDE:

525 meters above sea level.

Processing:

Natural: cherries were floated and laid on bamboo raised beds in a one-inch layer. Under-ripe and fermented cherries throughout the drying process were sorted, and the cherries were raked multiple times each day. After the cherries were dried, they're bagged to cure for two months before milling at Beanspires’ dry mill.

 

 

NOTABLE:

Thai Robusta has traditionally been processed for industrial use in instant coffee factories. This means that farmers strip-picked coffee that was full of underripe cherries and dried the coffee as a natural process on dirt floors. Thailand produced around 25,000 tons of Robusta coffee this way. Our partners in Beanspire met with a group of progressive farmers who have been trying to rely less on supplying their coffee to instant coffee factories and are ready to apply the same high standards coffee processing methods used in Arabica coffee processing, to Robusta.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY:

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire among your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.

 

One bean at a time

For more than 100 years, farmers grew opium in the rich soil of Doi Chang, a village nestled in the border hills of Asia's Golden Triangle. In 1984, the local government trained them to grow coffee instead. That same year, Supon, the founder of Sirinya Coffee was born.

As a young man, Supon left Doi Chang to study theology. He wanted to learn how to help the villagers — including his own family — who are stateless refugees and lack access to basic resources. He returned in 2012 to work on his family's coffee farm and discovered a love for the process, from plant to brew. He also discovered that he could help his fellow villagers by teaching them to produce specialty coffee. Supon has a heart to use business as a tool for redemption in the mountain villages surrounding his home. Today, Sirinya Coffee is a joint collaborative effort between Supon and his wife, Kittiya, remain committed to improving lives, one cup at a time.

 

CULTIVARS:

Bourbon, Caturra, Catimor

 

ALTITUDE:

1400-1500 meters above sea level.

 

PROCESSING:

Natural: cherries were floated and laid on bamboo raised beds in a one-inch layer. Under-ripe and fermented cherries throughout the drying process were sorted, and the cherries were raked multiple times each day. After the cherries were dried, they're bagged to cure for two months before milling at Beanspires’ dry mill.

 

NOTABLE:

Sirinya's micro lots ensure the highest quality Arabica coffee. At Beanspire, they use four processes on their coffee cherries: natural, honey, semi-wash, and wash. They only buy only ripe cherries and practice cupping on every lot of coffee before selling it. Farmers use natural fertilizers and insecticides made from local herbs and fruits. This cuts costs for the farmers, and increases quality. Farmers are paid competitive prices and the profits support families and marginalized people in the community.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY:

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire among your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.

 

From bean to cup

One of the most fascinating things about an origin like Thailand is the fact that most of the  farmers are not only farmers, but roast and brew.  To have a large group of farmers working together while understanding the complex process from bean to cup is quite a privilege and such is the case of Chatree Saeyang, who produces coffee in one of the oldest regions in Thailand, about 45 minutes from Chiang Mai City. Quite admirably, Chatree has won multiple awards in local green bean competitions, (including first place in 2019).

An interesting fact is that this area also hosts one of the oldest coffee regions in Thailand, and therefore a lot of heirloom varieties can be found there. Research has shown that this area has a lot of Bourbon and Typica.

 

CULTIVARS:

Bourbon, Typica & Chiang Mai

 

ALTITUDE:

1,300 meters above sea level.

 

PROCESSING:

 Extended Fermentation Fully Washed: coffee cherries are rested in low temperature for a few days before pulped and going through the washed process, which involves fermentation under water for a few days. Then, the parchment is dried on bamboo raised beds for 14 days until the appropriate moisture. The parchment is then cured for further two months inside Chatree's home before being mill at Beanspire's mill 2.5 hours away.

 

NOTABLE:

Because this is one of the oldest coffee growing regions in Thailand, there are a lot of heirloom varieties. Recently, Beaspire sent the leaves to World Coffee Research in order to map the genetics of the coffee trees in this area and the results came back quite surprising: while most Thai farms are of mixed varieties, this area has a lot of Bourbon and Typica, the sample shows that it is an Ethiopian landrace.

TASTIFY™ CUPPING NOTES :

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


PHOTO GALLERY:

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire among your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do so.

 The Veteran

Thai washed coffee is not usually very complex. But this coffee is special. It's processed by a veteran in the coffee industry, Noi Duongdee (39), who has been working as a coffee processor for over 10 years. Noi has worked with one of the pioneer mills in the Thai coffee specialty industry for many years before venturing out to start his own coffee processing plant in Chaiprakarn, Chiang Mail.


Cultivars:

Catimor, Chiang Mai

Elevation :

1250-1450 m

Processing:

Fully washed: the cherries are harvested throughout the day and rested for one night in cool temperature before being pulped in the morning. The delayed pulping with a controlled temperature helps add complexity to the coffee. After the coffee is pulped, it is submerged under minimum water to ferment for 18 hours before being cleaned and dried on a patio covered with plastic sheets for cleanliness. The minimum water usage helps retain the complexity, while creating consistency at the same time.

 

Notable :

Unusually complex flavours in a washed Thai coffee, due to very careful processing done by one of the country’s leading processing experts.

Browse through our Tastify Archives on Google Drive.


Photo Gallery :

You may use these images freely to promote Beanspire and Noi Duongdee to your customers. Please credit Beanspire if you do.